Review: Dhaba does it right

By Nichole Aksamit
WORLD-HERALD STAFF WRITER

Not prone to Flintstonian exclamations. But recent trips to Dhaba Indian Cuisine had me busting out a “Yabba Dhaba do!”

 

With affordable and varied buffet-only lunches; a kitchen capable of speedy takeout; a full-service dinner menu of Indian and less-common Indo-Chinese specialties; and a sizable and tidy dining room, Dhaba aims to please.

 

With few exceptions, the two-month-old independent eatery succeeded on recent lunch, dinner and takeout visits.

 

I've read that dhabas are the diners of India: roadside eateries that provide tasty and affordable local fare. But the Dhaba near 120th and Blondo Streets certainly does not resemble a truck stop. Aside from a few bare wooden booths with thatched roofs, the space skews contemporary: high industrial ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, stone-look laminated tables, soft green walls and a tiny bar with a mounted flat-screen TV.

 

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